Discover how traditional textile techniques such as hand weaving, embroidery, and natural dyeing are stitching sustainability into the very fabric of fashion!
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11 Jul 2024
6 Min Read
Michelle Lee Shu Ling (Student Writer)
Discover how traditional textile techniques such as hand weaving, embroidery, and natural dyeing are stitching sustainability into the very fabric of fashion!
There has been a recent resurgence in traditional textile crafts, gaining popularity across different age groups, including the younger generation. Techniques such as hand weaving, natural dyeing, and crocheting are making a comeback. Personally, I've developed a fondness for crocheted items like keychains, earrings, and pouches. Beyond their artisanal appeal, these techniques play a significant role in promoting circular fashion.
But what exactly is circular fashion? It is an innovative approach within the fashion industry that aims to establish a closed-loop system, minimising waste by maximising resource use. In this article, I will explore several traditional textile techniques and their contributions to circular fashion.
Hand weaving is a traditional textile technique that involves weaving threads on a manually operated loom. Variations of hand weaving are widespread in India, Japan, and Central America. One notable variation is Ikat from Indonesia, derived from the Malay word 'mengikat', meaning 'to tie'. This technique involves tying and dyeing threads before weaving them into textiles, creating blurry, mesmerising patterns that resemble a kaleidoscope. Indian Khadi fabric, introduced by Mahatma Gandhi, is another example of cultural significance. Typically made from cotton, silk, or wool, it is handwoven using a spinning wheel called a charkha and remains a popular choice for everyday clothing in India.
Photo credits: Fashinza
Hand weaving plays a crucial role in circular fashion due to the durability, aesthetic appeal, and eco-friendliness of the textiles produced. Firstly, these textiles are durable because they are crafted with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring a high-quality weave that lasts longer. Secondly, they showcase a rich tapestry of cultural heritage and artisanal skill, with each piece uniquely handwoven to display different patterns, textures, and colours. Lastly, they are eco-friendly, utilising natural fibres such as cotton, wool, silk, and linen, along with natural dyes derived from plants.
Embroidery is a decorative art form involving stitching designs, patterns, and motifs onto fabric using a needle and thread. Common techniques include:
A notable cultural example is Mexican Tenango embroidery, which exemplifies Mexico's diversity through intricate designs depicting local flora and fauna. These artworks use vibrant colours and hand-drawn shapes, drawing inspiration from ancient cave paintings.
Photo credits: Selvedge
Embroidery supports circular fashion practices by serving as a method for repairing and upcycling garments, thus extending their lifespan and giving new purpose to worn items. Beyond its practicality, embroidery enriches clothing with cultural significance by incorporating traditional patterns and symbols that reflect a community's heritage and history.
Some traditional sources of natural dyes include indigo, madder root, and turmeric. Indigo, famous for its blue dye, is extracted from the leaves of the indigo plant. Historically, madder root was a significant source of natural red dye, producing rich shades of scarlet and crimson that are resistant to fading. Turmeric is known for its bright yellow colour, though it can stain hands. A cultural example is Japanese Aizome dyeing, which dates back nearly 800 years in Tokushima. The region's natural environment, particularly the Yoshino River that irrigates the land, contributes to the deep indigo colour of the dye. The Japanese indigo plant thrives in this environment, and artisans use an ancient method known as lye fermentation to create the liquid indigo dye.
Photo credits: Japan National Tourism Organization
Natural dyes from plants and minerals align with circular fashion principles as they offer an eco-friendly and creative way to imbue fabrics with beautiful colours. Plant-based dyes are derived from renewable resources that can be grown sustainably. The dyeing process is gentler on the environment, requiring less energy and generating less waste. Leftover dye materials can be composted, enriching the soil with nutrients. Additionally, wastewater from plant-based dyeing processes is significantly less polluting and can often be safely returned to the environment.
Photo credits: Jadi Batek
Batik is a traditional textile technique where cloth is decorated using wax as a resist method. While its true origin remains shrouded in mystery, Batik has been traced back 2000 years to the Middle East, India, and China, gaining prominence in Indonesia and Malaysia. In Malaysia, states like Kelantan and Terengganu are celebrated as the cradle of Malaysian Batik. The Sultans played a pivotal role in its development, fostering experimentation and mass production. Since gaining independence in 1957, Malaysia has embraced Batik as part of its national identity, designating it as official attire for formal occasions. Malaysian Batik reflects the country's rich culture and craftsmanship. Each fabric is unique, adorned with intricate patterns meticulously hand-drawn using a canting, which gives each piece a distinctive appearance. The hand-drawn technique, known as Batik Tulis, may exhibit minor imperfections such as stains and slight irregularities, adding to its allure and value.
Batik exemplifies circular fashion through its emphasis on durability, traditional craftsmanship, and the use of natural materials. Batik fabrics are renowned for their durability, often lasting for generations and reducing the need for frequent replacement. This promotes longevity and sustainability in fashion. Additionally, Batik artisans use natural dyes derived from plants, which are renewable resources, further minimising environmental impact.
Hand-knitting is a traditional textile technique that uses yarn to create interconnected loops, resulting in a stretchy and flexible fabric. In contrast, crocheting involves using a hook to form fabric from loops of yarn. Crochet is believed to have originated in Arabia or China and gained popularity in Europe during the 1800s, continuing to grow in popularity ever since. Both techniques offer versatility in design through the use of different yarn weights and needle or hook sizes, enabling the creation of unique and personalised pieces such as cosy sweaters and home decor items. A cultural example of knitting is Peruvian Highland knitting which utilises alpaca and wool fibres to produce durable textiles with vibrant patterns. Knit Couture Peru, a women-owned factory in Lima, Peru, specialises in crafting high-quality fully-fashioned knitwear for women, men, and children. They draw on Peru's rich craftsmanship heritage and native yarns like Baby Alpaca, Alpaca, and Pima cotton.
Hand-knitting and crocheting contribute to circular fashion by creating garments with a distinctive, cosy feel. As fall essentials, cosy knitwear pairs perfectly with steaming cups of tea. These techniques also minimise waste by producing custom-made items, reducing offcuts and excess production.
In conclusion, I hope readers now understand how the traditional textile techniques discussed offer sustainable alternatives to mass-produced fabrics. From hand weaving to hand-knitting, each technique embodies principles of circular fashion through durability, repairability, resource renewability, and waste minimisation. By integrating these traditional textiles into our wardrobes—whether through knitwear, scarves, or accessories—we not only celebrate craftsmanship but also embrace the rich stories woven into every piece. Let's cherish these textiles for their cultural heritage and sustainable impact on our fashion choices!
Michelle Lee Shu Ling is currently pursuing a Bachelor of Laws (Honours) at Taylor's University. When she's not serving as President of Taylor's Lakeside Model United Nations (TLMUN) Club or Editor-In-Chief of Taylor's Lexicon Editorial Board, she writes!
